There is an old tradition on Chios that says when the Romans were led to the execution of Agios Isidoros, he unrepentant, but in agonising pain wept all the way along the road and the tears that fell on the earth became the fragrant mastic.
This is how a strange phenomenon is explained. How is it that a tree which exists in many places in the Mediterranean, only makes mastic in Chios? Nowhere else.
So the people believe it’s a gift from their patron saint Agios Isidoros.
But Chios is not just mastic.
There are the famous mediaeval villages such as Olymbos and Mesta which still survive untouched by the passing of time. There is Pyrgi, the traditional village with the unusual wall decoration, the “xysta” which cannot be found anywhere else in Greece. There is Nea Moni, the renowned Byzantine monastery with superb mosaics. There is even the famous “Seat of Homer”, the Dascalopetra.
Along with that, the island, has always been closely tied to its own history.
TOUR OF THE ISLAND
Chios lies near the Turkish coast, south of Lesvos and north of Samos and Icaria. The main product of the island, found only in Chios is mastic. It has been grown in ancient times in the “mastic villages” in the south. There are also factory units on the island producing different delicious products made of mastic.
The island was inhabited in ancient times by Pelasgians, Karians and Leleges and later by Ionians from Attica. It developed its own culture and was at the zenith during the 6th century BC. Many scholars believe that Homer was born on Chios.
1. Kambos- Agios Minas- Nenita (21km)
You follow the road which heads south of the town. In a while you will find yourself in the area of Kambos which extends 6km south with its old mansions and large gardens full of citrus and other trees. Among them the property of Philippos rgentis stands out.
4km. A turn off left after 3km to the beach of Karfas.
5km. Junction. Go left to Kallimasia.
10km. Agios MInas. A short distance from the road of your main route is this historic monastery on the left. Here in 1822 3000 Chiotes from the area were slaughtered after seeking refuge in the monastery.
13km. A turn off left past Kallimasia leads after 2km to the seashore of Agios Aimilianos.
17km. Katarraktis. Picturesque seaside settlement.
21km. Nenita. The church of the village. Agios Tryphon, has an exquisite carved wooden iconostasis. Near Nenita is the Monastery of the Taxiarchon.
2. Pyrgi- Mesta- Harbour of Mesta (41km)
13km. Tholopotami. It is the area of the Mastichochoria (“mastic villages”). All the villages south of Kambos are called Mastichochoria. There are mastic trees left and right of the road. Each mastic tree produces about 200gr of mastic a year.
21km. Armolia. A village with a pottery tradition. On the hill is the Genoan Castle of Oria or Apolychnon, from the 15th century.
25km. A branch 5km long left leads to the attractive little harbour of Emborio where the ruins of a prehistoric settlement were discovered on the hill of Profitis Ilias. South of the harbour is the impressive bay of Mavra Volia, one of the most stunning beaches of Chios.
You return to your main route and head west.
26km. Pyrgi. The mediaeval village which began to be built around an original tower (pyrgos- tower). Here later developed the traditional decoration of the exterior walls with greyish- white geometrical shapes which the locals call xysta.
Noteworthy in the village is the Byzantine church of Agioi Apostoloi, which has striking wall paintings and the basilica of the Koimiseis Theotokou (The Assumption)
Heading west from Pyrgoi to Olymbos, you have the bay of Fanes, on your right for about 5km with a beautiful sand beach.
33km. Olymbos. Another mediaeval village built with the same construction system as Pyrgi.
37km. Mesta. Yet another mediaeval village, the best preserved and most impressive. There are five entrances to it. If there were no arrows to show you the right direction, you could easily get lost in the narrow circular lanes which are covered with arches. A church of the Megali Taxiarchi was built at the site of a central fortified tower. Near the church is the delightful village square. The church of Palaios Taxiarchis at the north of the village is worth seeing.
47km. Harbour of Mesta. A settlement that is developing. From here the trip to Rafina, Attica, by ferry boat takes only 6 hours.
HOW TO GET THERE
There are regular flights to Chios from Athens. The airport is 4km away from the town. There are also flights from Thessaloniki. There are ferry services from Piraeus and Rafina. Chios is also connected to Mytilini, Samos, Kavala, Kalymnos, Kos, Leros, Patmos, Limnos, Skyros and Volos. There are daily services to Inoussa and Psara and a year round ferry to Cesme, Turkey. Hydrofoils connect Chios to Plomari on Lesvos and Samos.